Suncatcher's and Acrylic Plastic Crafts for Decorating.School Holiday and Rainy Day Crafts for Kids.Hands mounted on the clock shaft for fit before tumbling.Ī collection of brass hands after tumbling in a barrel of brass screws. It smoothed the edges off the hands nicely, and didn’t bend even the most delicate hands, which was a pleasant surprise. We tumbled the hands in a barrel of brass screws and nuts overnight to soften the edges. This copper-clad PCB was used for several iterations of hands. ![]() When removing the hands, we learned to remove gently, from the side, not from from the end. Afterwards, an acetone bath for 3 minutes made it easier to remove the hands from the board. Then we milled the hands with a 1/16” bit. We attached the bronze to the board and the board to the mill’s table with double-stick tape. To mill the hands, we attached the bronze sheet to a one-sided copper-clad board for making printed circuits. We used a 1/16” bit to mill the hands, so we made sure to fillet the connections between elements, so the bit could turn corners easily.ĭrawing of the minute hand, with fillets’ radius shown. ![]() In designing our hands, the most important lesson was that fillets are our friends. Note that they are totally flat, unlike the store hands. Note the rounding of the edges and the center hole in the hour hand, and the center pin on the second hand.Ĭustom milled hands in progress. We took the center pin from an existing second hand for our hands. The center pin on the second hand is the only feature we haven’t yet duplicated. We still chose to counter-weight the second hand. We’re making a clock with very small hands, so that also helped. Making the center holes slightly smaller to make the press-fit tighter helped. Since our hands are flat, we have to compensate. All of these characteristics contribute to making the hands more stable and to stay more level when on the shaft. The hour hands tend to have rolled edges on the center hole to prevent them from sagging, and the second hands are generally counterweighted to compensate for their length. They are often rolled to provide more stiffness. The hands of the clock kits we’ve been buying are generally made from a slightly thinner metal than we used to make our own. Reference hands cut from 1/8-inch acrylic on a laser cutter.Īll three hands on a clock. The acrylic second hand would not hold to the center pin well, so we used a little glue to hold it on. The kerf of the laser beam will make your holes a bit bigger. If you’re cutting hands on a laser cutter, err on the small side. ![]() With the material we used, an error of about 0.1 - 0.2mm was workable. The dimensions of the shafts varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model, however, so measure the specific one you’re using with good calipers. Most second hands are held on with a hollow pin that has a 1mm inner diameter, about 2.2mm outer diameter. second hand: a tapered shaft running from about 0.9mm to 1mm diameter.minute hand: about 3.3mm diameter, with two parallel flatted sides about 2.7mm apart.hour hand: about 5mm diameter, slightly tapered to provide tolerance for different hand designs. ![]() Here are the general dimensions we found for three or four different models: The details here refer to the Quartex Clear Clock Movement and other Quartex movements from Klockit. We wanted to make our own hands, and experimented with milling them using an Othermill, a desktop CNC mill. These clock movements have fairly standardized shaft dimensions for the hour, minute, and second hands, and you can buy a variety of hands for them as well. View the Project on GitHub ITPNYU/clock-club Making Custom Clock Handsįor many different clock designs, we’ve been using cheap analog clock movements that you can buy in hobby stores or online from sources like Klockit. A collection of materials for students and practitioners of interactive design who want to make timepieces.
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